Appraiser Under Oath

TWENTIETH-CENTURY INTREGUE

Sometimes we learn from historical documents some interesting trivia. In researching patents for Perfect Diagram, I encountered some interesting diamond historical facts.1 In addition, I have encountered a few Twentieth Century cut diamonds during my carrier as an appraiser. This antique cut is an involved cut with 80 facets. The Diamond Dictionary stated that the most prominent departure from the standard brilliant is in the extension of the eight star facets.sup>2

Twenieth-century Cut

Like most gemologist-appraisers, I recognized the cut and understood it to be an antique cut from the early 1900s.

1903 Patent

The Plot Sickens

In researching the Twentieth Century cut I located the patent, numbered 693,074, filed April 4, 1901, granted February 11, 1902 to David C. Townsend. In cross referencing the inventor’s name, I discovered a lawsuit involving an infringement of the patent. Now, it gets interesting.

There was a lawsuit filed in United States Circuit Court, New York, October 3, 1902 by David C. Townsend of Neresheimer against Schenck and Van Haelen.³

Who is Schenck?

I have posted an article about Schenck concerning his patent for polishing the girdle of diamonds. See Girdles.

Who is David C. Townsend?

A Louis Neresheimer from Munich, Bavaria, came to the United States 1880, associating himself with his brother, E. August Neresheimer. They formed a partnership that lasted from 1995 until the end of 1897. At that time, Louis Neresheimer and David C. Townsend bought the business - the firm becoming Neresheimer & Co. This business continued from January 1, 1898 to January 1, 1904. But the business had grown to very large proportions and they formed separate concerns. David C. Townsend & Co. continued the American business, while Mr. Neresheimer & Co., took up the London based business.⁴

The Defense

Schenck cited two references that had published the cut two years prior to the patent filing⁵ as well as naming several others who cut and sell the same cut. Townsend who was a well-known figure in the jewelry⁶ trade placed an advertisement in Jeweler’s Circular Keystone magazine⁷ slamming Schenck for knocking off his patent.

Jubilee Cut

The Outcome

After an exhaustive search, and not unlike mysteries on television that leave viewers without an ending, I could not find out the conclusion of the court. However …

Twin Cuts

If you open your copy of the Illustrated Dictionary of Jewelry or Diamond Dictionary, it will be discovered that the experts state the twentieth-century cut is the same or similar as the Jubilee cut.

“… It is similar to the Jubilee Cut.”⁸

“… The same as the Jubilee cut.”⁹

The Jubilee cut has 8 extra facets but otherwise looks the same. “It was named in commemoration of the 60th anniversary of Queen Victoria’s accession in 1897.”¹⁰ Under the Jubilee cut in Illustrated Dictionary of Jewelry, the book states that “… There is thus a total of 88 (sometimes only 80) facets. The cut was developed, as an American modification of the brilliant cut, in the early 20th century and named in honour of Queen Victoria’s jubilee (1897); sometimes called the Twentieth-century cut.”¹¹

Jubilee Cut

As you can see the extra eight facets are really the upper eight bezel facets each split into two facets for a total of sixteen.

Trade history to an appraiser is useful in circa dating antique and period pieces. It will also help a gemologist-appraiser to determine if the integrity of an item has been compromised. We can assume that either the Twentieth-century or Jubilee cuts could not be prior to 1885, with a most likely circa date of 1900. However, the cut, stated as a trademark with an illustration of the cut, was listed in the 1904, 1915 and 1922 Jewelers’ Circular Keystone trademark books.¹²

JCK Trademark

Respectfully submitted,

Bill Hoefer

^{1. A gallery of precision cut diagrams used for plotting gemstones. See Perfect Diagram for more information. Back to Text ↑ ↑ ↑}
^{2. Diamond Dictionary, Second Edition, by Robert A. P. Gaal, page 303. Back to Text ↑ ↑ ↑}
^{3. Jewelers’ Circular Keystone magazine, March 25, 1903, page 20. Back to Text ↑ ↑ ↑}
^{4. Jewelers’ Circular Keystone magazine, July 20, 1904, page 46. Back to Text ↑ ↑ ↑}
^{5. L’Opinion, September 10, 1885 and L’Escaut, August 19, 1885 – both published in Antwerp, Belgium. Neither newspaper is not available to review.. Back to Text ↑ ↑ ↑}
^{6. As evidenced by the number of articles, references, etc., seen in Jewelers’ Circular Keystone publications from the era. Back to Text ↑ ↑ ↑}
^{7. Jewelers’ Circular Keystone magazine, August 27, 1902, page 35. The advertisement had a date of August 10, 1902 in it. Back to Text ↑ ↑ ↑}
^{8. Diamond Dictionary, Second Edition, by Robert A. P. Gaal, page 303. Back to Text ↑ ↑ ↑}
^{9. An Illustrated Dictionary of Jewelry, by Harold Newman, page 316. Back to Text ↑ ↑ ↑}
^{10. Diamond Dictionary, Second Edition, by Robert A. P. Gaal, page 151. Back to Text ↑ ↑ ↑}
^{11. An Illustrated Dictionary of Jewelry, by Harold Newman, page 174. Back to Text ↑ ↑ ↑}
^{12. Trademarks of the Jewelry and Kindred Trades, The Jewelers’ Circular Publishing Co., New York, 1904, page 140. Also listed in the 1915 and 1922 issues. I do not have the 1909 issue to verify if it was also mentioned but most likely it was also included in that issue. Back to Text ↑ ↑ ↑}